Saturday, 3 November 2018
Picture: Concrete Repairs
Across the great divide
So there is a physical and a political split down the middle of Golden Lane. Not that anybody pays much attention, apart from the road cleaners (they wash the City side). City of London and Islington residents around here have lived in each other’s pockets for years. Golden Laners use Fortune Street Park (Islington) and Islington children use the Golden Lane Estate (City) as a cycle park. I sometimes think Golden Lane gets the best of the shared deal, but it hasn't always been the case.
Recently I was loaned a copy of an unpublished memoir by Pat Moriarty, a former resident of the nearby Peabody estate off Whitecross Street (Islington). In it she describes life in our neighbourhood in the 1950s and 1960s. The area was razed beyond recognition by German bombing during the second world war, but what Pat describes is an area pulling itself together again. The picture she paints is best described as grim with a grin, a proper black-and-white story of enduring hardship, where the Peabody's women took turns daily to boil up a copper cauldron in which they did the family laundry, while the men scratched around for a bit of portering work and hard drinking at the local Whitbread brewery. But at the heart of these memories is a warm smile and a gentle hello from a rich cast of local characters. This is post-war Britain at its best.
One of the great moments of relief for young mothers from the Peabody back in the 1950s and early 1960s was to wheel their young children over to the newly constructed Golden Lane Estate, where a sunken lawn provided a ready-made open-air playpen. While the children ran free, the women bonded to form what might be described as an early feminist club, a kind local social sisterhood born from the rubble of international conflict.
Sometimes it looks like history is repeating itself. Nearly all of the activities and events that take place today on the Golden Lane Estate are the work of women. Our estate manager is a woman, our community centre manager is a woman, our community engagement officer is a woman. The only councillor who lives on the estate is a woman. I cite these examples only because nobody ever does.
Two women I was pleased to introduce to our newly redesigned Golden Lane Estate community centre not long ago were the actors Rachael Spence and Lisa Hammond. Both are accomplished board-treaders and regulars on film and TV. Lisa is probably best know for her work as a cunningly perceptive detective in TV’s 'Vera' (starring Brenda Blethyn) and as Donna Yates, a market stallholder in 'EastEnders'.
But Rachael and Lisa have together been carving out their own theatrical niche for more than 10 years. It started, so the story goes, one day while they were trying to write parts for themselves (as young actors inevitably do). They were lost for words, didn't know what to say or how to say it. So they took to the streets they knew best, their own neighbourhood, and asked people what to write about and in what words.
Out of this gonzo exercise came ‘No Idea’, a stage show that defined their cluelessness. They found a spiritual home in this method of “verbatim theatre” and, between regular acting jobs, kept the idea of going. Sometime last year I reported on ‘Old Street New Street’, a show they put on at Shoreditch Town Hall, in which a group of local teenagers performed words lifted from interviews Rachael and Lisa had done with old people from the area. In the process of mouthing the words, the young actors became so absorbed in the voices of their surrogate oldies that they slipped into character and began to mimic them, often in hilarious caricature.
Now Rachael and Lisa are at it again, in a 10th Anniversary reworking of the 'No Idea’ idea, in a show imaginatively titled 'Still No Idea’ at the Royal Court theatre in Chelsea. They cut a curious comedy double act. Rachael is tall and leggy, Lisa is short and compact, whizzing around in her wheelchair with characteristic abandon. But they make the most of the contrast and play it off against one another. This softens the edges of what can sometimes be squirmingly hard material that skates the thin ice of bad taste and taboo.
Lisa Hammond and Rachael Spence in 'Still No Idea' |
It didn't take long for reminiscence to kick in. Rachael currently lives off Whitecross Street and Lisa grew up in the neighbourhood. Both recall the old Golden Lane community centre and the pleasures of performing on its stage. The newly remodelled community centre offers fabulous views of the estate's fish pond, where Lisa would play as a child, and inevitably fall in.
Their attachment to the area seems genuine, and in their self-styled theatre work they are looking to explore the changes wrought on this part of London and its residents from its earlier identity as part of working-class Finsbury to the aspirational, gentrified habitat of middle-class modernists of Golden Lane and the brutalist poseurs of the Barbican.
Interestingly, the very southern tip of Islington, south of Old Street towards St Giles and the Barbican, still retains much of its working-class kudos. The social housing is still there, the street market thrives. The street signs still declair them as part of Finsbury. And you can't move in Kennedy's fish and chip shop for gobby taxi drivers.
It is a Whitecross Street Pat Moriarty and her first generation of exotic locals would recognise. Much has changed, but some things also stay the same.
Golden Lane Gallery: Great Arthur House roof garden
Wednesday, 31 October 2018
Golden Lane: November 2018
Councillor Pearson is not alone in her dim view of council attitudes towards our estate. Many residents complain not just of the material neglect shown to what is studied worldwide as important modernist architecture, but of the institutional failure to genuinely attach any cultural value to these boxy coloured buildings we call home.
It was councillor Pearson who one warm day in 2016 invited me to join a party of volunteers 16 storeys up on the top of Great Arthur House, where there is, unbeknown to many residents, a spectacular roof garden (with pond). The garden has been closed for many years, yet it is one of the most beautiful and distinguished parts of our estate, and remains criminally ignored and underused.
We had a job to do on that day because parts the garden's paving had become overgrown with weeds, so we set about our back-breaking work with little to sustain us other than the fabulous views of London in every direction. We finished with aching arms but the smug feeling of a job well done.
So I have some sympathy with councillor Pearson’s sentiments about our landlords. Residents would just like to get a sense that the City Corporation views its asset, our estate, with some pride.
It could be all be so different. In Barcelona, one of master architect Gaudí’s most celebrated buildings, Casa Milà (aka, La Pedrera), has a roof garden that has been properly secured and is scrupulously maintained, hosting regular summer evenings of light music.
Back on Golden Lane, a more enlightened approach can be seen unfolding behind the community centre. On her arrival as estate manager back in April, Michelle Warman took an instant shine to our fish pond, which sits in a peaceful sunken garden between Bowater House and Bayer House. The pond had fallen into a sorry state, but now it is a picture of nascent vitality. Fresh reed beds have been planted and a new aerating pump has replaced the old ugly one. The fish can once again breathe easily, free from choking slime. Their only problem is a hungry heron that has been spotted lurking on the roof of Bayer House, eyeing a feast below.
A picture of nascent vitality |
Another example is the recent City Corporation decision to close the estate's management office and use the space to create new flats. Where the estate office will be re-located is a mystery. The City Corporation says it can move into the community centre, but nearly four months after the community centre officially opened after refurbishment, it is still not fit for wheelchair users. It's hard to argue against the creation of much-needed new homes, but in this case I’ll give it a go...
When the estate was first built, its administrative hub was deliberately put in a central, open and accessible place, on the ground floor of Great Arthur House. The present office fronts onto a paved plaza connecting it to the community centre. This plaza is where residents gather, bump into one another, swapping stories and information about activities and events. This space has been converted into a busy car park, and nattering residents are forced to step aside whenever a vehicle approaches.
Robbing the estate of its communal spaces is the kind of casual and careless “trashing” that councillor Pearson is trying to resist. Not long ago, she had a bad accident and simultaneously broke both of her arms. Yet still she soldiers on, often in the face of often ugly opposition. So when I say “more power to her elbow”, I mean it in more ways than one.
Update: Last month I wrote about the dangers of u-turning traffic to residents crossing Fann Street. In two half-hour vigils, I counted 26 and 29 (almost one a minute) prohibited u-turns. Under the Freedom of Information Act, I asked how many penalties had been issued in the past year, the amount of the fine, and where the money is spent. The reply has just arrived, stating that 266 penalty notices went out in the past 12 months (fewer than one a day), that the fine for each is £130, discounted to £65 if paid within 14 days, and that the money is spent on off-street parking and other transport projects.
Billy Mann has lived on the Golden Lane Estate for 24 years. He is a City of London Community Builder and blogs about neighbourhood happenings at basterfieldbilly.blogspot.com.
Tuesday, 9 October 2018
Golden Lane: October 2018
For reasons I can only guess at, wind speeds at this corner nudge 50km/h, and images of hapless pedestrians being blown into the path of raging traffic are never far from the imagination. Safety is further compromised by motorists heading north on Goswell Road lunging into prohibited u-turns, swinging with menace over Fann Street’s busiest crossing point. Fingering taxi drivers is cruel sport, but they are unquestionably the chief culprits.
A group of miffed residents has taken to the estate’s website (about this. Stories of residents risking their lives trying to cross Fann Street are possibly an exaggeration. Only just (in two separate 30-minute slots, I counted 26 and 29 u-turns, including three by City of London Corporation vehicles and one by a non-emergency police car).
And these unhappy residents are joined by their Barbican neighbours, who are livid that drivers seeking to avoid u-turn detection by the roadside cameras on Goswell Road swoop into the underground car-park slip road alongside Blake Tower to perform a 3-point turn. This manoeuvre is not prohibited, but nevertheless dangerous, as many terrified Barbican residents will testify.
I’ve been told that the u-turn danger spot is the result of traffic diverted by Crossrail building work at Farringdon. I’m told also that the City Corporation has not received a single complaint from Golden Lane residents and that we “are good at complaining to each other, but not to City officers”. This came from one of our Common Councillors.
The City Corporation doesn't make it easy to complain. Once you’ve navigated to the relevant page on its website, you are asked first whether your complaint is a actually a complaint. Anything the City Corporation considers “frivolous or vexatious” is rejected. Then, assuming you tick all the boxes, the instructions outline a three-stage process for complaining, the first of which amounts to: “don’t call us, call whoever it is you want to complain about.”
I decided to run a test. Early last month I sent written questions to the City Corporation asking how many fines have been issued for the Fann Street/Goswell Road junction in the past 12 months, and where the revenue collected is spent. I didn't get an answer, so contacted complaints@cityoflondon.gov.uk. Two days later I got a message advising me to submit my questions under the Freedom of Information Act, which I have now done. Watch this space.
The trouble with complaining is that you run the risk of sounding paranoid, or slightly unhinged, which is probably why many residents don’t bother. Some, thankfully, do. One of them is a close neighbour in Basterfield House. His name is Nigel.
One of Nigel’s biggest problems is that he is too clever for his own good. He is a retired architect and building surveyor, so when he fires off an angry email to an unsuspecting City Corporation officer about the finer points of the Listed Building Management Guidelines, he knows what he's talking about.
The effect can be intimidating and whenever I start reading one of Nigel's sizzling complaints (he always copies me in) I picture him sat red-faced in front of a computer screen dripping with a noxious slurry of spit, venom and bile.
His letters all start with an attempt at politeness in the “Dear Sir/Madam” mould. Unfortunately, Nigel's courteous opening line somehow can’t disguise the contempt and hostility that is to follow, which quickly mutates into barbed sarcasm along the lines of “It pains me to bring to your attention the matter I first brought to your attention three months ago.”
It’s hard to say whether Nigel's dogged attacks have any effect. It might just be coincidence, but after several months of Nigel's rolling vitriol on the poor quality of the concrete repairs currently in progress on the estate, residents were told that the City Corporation were conducting a detailed investigation. That sounds like a home win for Nigel to me.
For the benefit of his health, I urge Nigel to chill. He assures me that he does, at long, lazy lunches in upmarket restaurants with his son. My concern is half-hearted. I want him to keep ranting. My parting words with him are always the same: “See you later, Nigel. Stay angry. Carry on complaining.”
Billy Mann has lived on the Golden Lane Estate for 24 years. He is a City of London Community Builder and blogs about neighbourhood happenings at basterfieldbilly.blogspot.com.
An edited version of this column appeared in the City Matters newspaper, number 083.
Tuesday, 2 October 2018
EC1: An international neighbourhood
Of its products, my favourite is the kintsugi kit for repairing broken plates (pictured below) and teapots according to the disciplines laid down by a 15th-Century Japanese emperor. It’s a sort of gold-plated decorative welding job, but surprisingly looks quite attractive.
Saturday, 15 September 2018
Ouch, that really hurt!
Thursday, 6 September 2018
Golden Lane: September 2018
Summer slowed to a crawl this year on Golden Lane. The excitement of the World Cup and Wimbledon faded quickly and, once the hot weather arrived, a snail’s pace took over. The concrete repairs across the estate left behind a film of fine dust, so suffocation looked like a distinct possibility. But still nobody seemed that bothered. Even the ever-present bitching about the City Corporation and its serial crimes against happiness fell into a lull.
Then the weather changed, the exam results rolled in and the children began to steel themselves for a new school year. It was time to wake up and get moving. Now the new football season is back in full swing, 2018 has found its legs again. In Summer, our tennis courts are plagued by would-be Wimbledonians. But already the netball teams have moved into that space with their fierce tactical shouting and piercing whistles. I can feel hackles raising in Cullum Welch and Crescent House already, as those are the blocks within earshot. Angry postings to message boards are in the pipeline.
Sport is important for some residents, not so much for others. There’s a local tribal loyalty to Arsenal, which is a drawback (I support Liverpool), but even so it is fascinating to see attitudes to sport in competition: to spectate or to participate? For fitness or for fun, health or happiness, whose side are you on? In the corner of our estate at the junction of Baltic Street and Goswell Road is the People’s Choice cafe. Nowadays it is a sanctuary for stressed office workers and anyone just passing, but some years ago, I’m told, it was a resting place for off-duty training staff from Arsenal FC, who would be joined occasionally by squad players for impromptu team talks and mugs of stewed tea. I like these kinds of stories.
Yes, times have changed. Sport is now a serious business; spreadsheets, analytics, psychotherapy and a new pair of Adidas Predators are today's essentials. We have a number of betting shops locally, but I am yet to convince anyone that a flutter on the horses is as good as a frantic half-hour session on a rowing machine.
I’m not a slob, but I fell out with our estate's gym, Golden Lane Sport and Fitness (GLSF), for a number of reasons, the most serious being a failure to promptly repair busted machines. They also got rid of the punchbag, which really got my goat.
But all that has changed recently and new machines have just been installed as part of what is punted as an £80,000 refit. Residents harbour the suspicion that any investment in GLSF, which is run by the Fusion chain, is for City workers rather than residents – and that rankles.
GLSF does at least support health initiatives such as Exercise on Referral in partnership with GP surgeries. It also connects parents and children to Fit for Sport, which runs activities during school holidays, though these are charged at a market rate and are beyond the means of many. A discount rate is offered to over-50s in GLSF’s Young at Heart membership. And City of London Time Credits can be swapped for gym and swimming sessions.
I advise residents to use GLSF whenever they can. There is a huge variety and diversity of sports available, not only a gym staffed by skilled and friendly trainers, a swimming pool, a badminton court, two tennis courts and a multitude of classes in the ‘glass box’ studio. As I’ve stated already, the tennis courts double as netball pitches, the badminton court is also used in down-times for table tennis, the swimming pool has a hoist and occasionally runs assisted swimming sessions for the disabled, There's even the chance to learn the basics of scuba diving. The studio covers everything from the gentle (yoga, pilates, aerobics) to the more energetic reaches of individual sport (kickboxing, bodycombat, bootcamp fitness). If the cost is likely to be prohibitive, I point residents to City LivingWise for advice on free or low-cost exercising for good health. For the big team sports (football, cricket, rugby), there are few opportunities here in the City.
Aside from all this, the urge to be active will always find its own form of expression. Next to the Basterfield Rotunda tree garden here on the estate is a designated soft-surface ball-games space where football-fanatic boys (and girls, more commonly these days) practise keepy-uppies and precision spot kicks long after their parents told them to stop. In Cuthbert-Harrowing House we have a (reluctant) young basketball ace. Embarrassingly, his mother carries around on her iPhone a video of him effortlessly planting balls through the hoop from 20 metres. The scene plays on, over and over, until you start to suspect it’s all a stunt, some sort of trick photography. You are wrong. It’s for real. Her son is just monotonously good at basketball. He plays for pleasure, and that's what makes him a winner.
To have your say on the Mayor's city-wide strategy for sport, visit the Assembly's Talk London website. Billy Mann has lived on the Golden Lane Estate for 24 years. He is a City of London Community Builder and blogs about neighbourhood happenings at basterfieldbilly.blogspot.com.
An edited version of this column appeared in the City Matters newspaper, issue number 081.
Sunday, 2 September 2018
Incident: Whitecross Street
From my seat I could see one of the officers inside checking a bundle of papers, which I guessed to be the employment documentation for the people working there. The checking and talking continued for some time. None of the customers seemed bothered by what we felt was an air of menace and aggression. At one point, officers hurried out of the front of the restaurant and scuttled to the rear. They had, I assume, twigged that anyone trying to abscond from the premises would head that way. In fact, anyone trying to abscond would have given them the slip long ago such was the dim-wittedness of those in charge.
He also talked about the area at the junction of Whitecross Street and Banner Street ,where he has business interests in a dry cleaners, and Italian restaurant, Cozzo, and a cafe, the Market Restaurant, opposite The Iskelé. Next door to the Market Restaurant cafe was an ailing tailors, which specialised in alterations and custom-made clothes. The business closed recently and The Iskelé group of businesses now use the shop as a storage space.
Thursday, 9 August 2018
Golden Lane: August 2018
Monday, 16 July 2018
Golden Lane: July 2018
Wednesday, 20 June 2018
Portman Pharmacy: New depths of bad manners
Tuesday, 12 June 2018
St Luke's: Dementia workshop
In the second description Peggy uses the metaphor of the bookcase. Imagine, she says, a bookcase made of plywood. Each of its shelves are full of books; each of the shelves represents 10 years of your life; all of the books on each shelf are your memories of that decade. On the bottom shelf are your earliest memories, on the top are your most recent. Push the shelf slightly and it will sway; push it harder and the books on the top shelf will begin to fall off. More pushing and the books on the other shelves will do likewise, but the books on the bottom shelf (your long-term memories) will only fall off after an almighty shove. As you try desperately to put the falling books back on their shelves, many of them will get mixed up. In other words, you become confused. This is what dementia is like.
Thursday, 7 June 2018
Golden Lane: June 2018
Sport was meant to be the subject of this month's column. Arsenal are widely supported here on Golden Lane and their ponderous appointment of a new manager has been a hot topic, and not just for those old enough to remember who Dick Emery was. The booking congestion at the Golden Lane tennis courts is another issue. And there is one resident (a Leyton Orient fan) whose dream is to see “walking football” introduced to the estate. All of that will have to wait, because the environment has barged in demanding attention.
First is the CoLPAI development of the former Richard Cloudesley site, which stands to rob us of several proud birch trees. An online petition to “Save Our Trees” is up for signing on change.org and staff from both the City Corporation and Islington Council have bleeding eyeballs working through the small print of the planning verdict in case someone overlooked something. It wouldn't be the first time. Add to this the latest news about the City's ultra-poor air quality and cutting down healthy trees and replacing them with flaky promises of new ones “sometime soonish” seems indefensible.
A much nicer experience was this year's Golden Baggers day trip, to the Turn End house and garden in Buckinghamshire, and in planning for this year’s Open Garden Squares Weekend (9-10 June), which will no doubt once again see hundreds of green-fingered enthusiasts trooping through our award-winning allotments. It was nice also to attend a reception for one Golden Bagger, artist Liz Davis (aka, “Buffy”), who for the past nine years has been sneaking around the neighbourhood collecting weirdly-named (sorry, rare) plant species (Hairy Cockspur?), drying them under scientific scrutiny and mounting them on the finest art paper. Her exhibition, 'Wild City’, is at the Town House Gallery in Fournier Street E1 until 17 June.
It was also a bonus to be invited by our new estate manager, Michelle, to join an al-fresco discussion about the Golden Lane pond. The pond sits in an idyllic and relaxing spot at the back the community centre between Bowater House and Bayer House and is flanked by fabulous shrub roses. But it is suffering. Slime is festering below the surface of the water, the reeds are gasping for breath and the innocent turtles thrash around looking totally clueless. The fountain and pump are unsightly and a wholescale renovation is overdue. Buffy is shouting “homes for frogs” at passing strangers.
Michelle is keen to rescue the pond’s beauty from the jaws of neglect, but getting residents to agree on anything around here is hard work, and tainted by a dash of status envy, since the Barbican’s handsome water features get more loving attention from the City Corporation than do Golden Lane’s. A general meeting is planned for June 21 so all pond views can be captured. Expect some feisty exchanges.
And we mustn't forget that the environment includes buildings. The scaffolding on Great Arthur House is coming down, though the dust and psychological damage to residents during the tiresome two-year window-replacement project will take much longer to clear up.
The dust is unlikely to settle on Bernard Morgan House anytime soon. One the accidental pleasures of the demolition of the former police section house is that the Eglwys Jewin Welsh church in Fann Street, with its distinctive green roof, can now be seen out in the open, in all its heavenly glory. Not for long. The BMH site is being prepared for a mammoth block of luxury flats nobody on the average UK wage could ever afford. The developers, Taylor Wimpey, are clearly nervous about the building’s designated name, The Denizen. They have been surveying residents for an alternative, something a bit less flashy and superior, I guess.
Their list of possible new names did not include Big Ugly Monster (BUM) so I spoiled my ballot paper in protest. Then something very funny happened. A relic WW2 bomb was unearthed by a JCB. The area was closed off and everyone in Bowater House and Cuthbert-Harrowing House put their fingers in their ears. They needn’t have bothered. It's was a false alarm, and the digging soon resumed.
The “Bernard Morgan Bomb” incident got some of our senior residents talking about the old Ealing comedy film ‘Passport to Pimlico’ (1949), in which the accidental explosion of an undetonated German WW2 bomb uncovers a tomb full of treasure and an ancient royal charter declaring the surrounding area an independent state. Postwar rationing and austerity end immediately and the pubs stay open for 24 hours a day. Sounds good to me.
Billy Mann has lived in Basterfield House on the Golden Lane Estate for 24 years. He is a City of London Community Builder and blogs about neighbourhood happenings at basterfieldbilly.blogspot.com. Write to him at goldenlanegazette@gmail.com.
An edited version of this column appeared in the City Matters newspaper, issue 075
Wednesday, 9 May 2018
Golden Lane: May 2018
Wednesday, 11 April 2018
Golden Lane: April 2018
Billy Mann has lived in Basterfield House on the Golden Lane Estate for more than 20 years. He is membership secretary of the Golden Baggers allotment group and a City of London Community Builder. He writes a blog about neighbourhood happenings at basterfieldbilly.blogspot.com
A version of this column appeared in the City Matters newspaper.